Notes on "The Forbidden Game," my story in Slate Magazine March 10, 2010

From Slate.com - March 9, 2010

From Slate.com - March 9, 2010

If you haven’t already, go ahead and check out my piece in Slate that takes a look at China’s “golf police,” bulldozed fairways and plenty of local politics. And make sure you also peruse the companion photo essay with images of the destroyed golf course and rural village life from Ryan Pyle.

Folks unfamiliar with the way China works may be a bit confused how a country can experience a golf course boom during a supposed moratorium on golf course construction. Those who have spent time in China do not suffer from such confusion. In fact, the Chinese have several sayings for the disconnect that often exists between Beijing’s best intentions and how they are interpreted, or simply ignored, out in the provinces. Here’s a sampling:

上有政策, 下有对策 (shàng yǒu zhèng cè , xià yǒu duì cè)
“Where there are policies from above, there are counter-policies from below.”

山高皇帝远 (shān gāo huáng dì yuǎn)
“The mountain is high and the emperor is far away.”

政令不出中南海 (zhèng lìng bú chū zhōng nán hǎi)
“Policies and commands stop at the gate of Zhongnanhai.”

Of course, in the case of golf, it’s debatable whether Beijing was really that serious about its 2004 “moratorium” in the first place. Golf courses are good for business — or, at least, they are supposedly a sign that business is good (for a while, anyway … the struggling U.S. has around 17,000 of them). But China is also a developing nation with 600 million peasant farmers, which explains why golf headlines coming out of the country often seem at odds with each other.

For example, in my Slate story I reference a China Daily item from early December entitled “Golf defies rules to gain ground,” which discusses illegal land use and the latest crackdown on golf course development. A little more than a month later, the very same state-run mouthpiece ran a story with this headline: “China on verge of a golf boom.” It made no mention of the supposed crackdown and featured outlandish statements such as:

Han Liebao, director of the Golf Education and Research Department at the Beijing Forestry University, said the appropriate number of golf courses for Beijing should be about 370, based on an assumption that every middle-class Beijinger would play one round per week.

Emphasis mine. Reuters’ recent coverage of golf in China has been similarly antithetical (and at the same time accurate). On March 2 they told us China was teeing up for a “golf explosion.” And on March 7 their headline read: “Only one of 20 Beijing golf courses legal.”


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About Par for China

I am Dan Washburn, an American writer based in Shanghai, China. I am currently researching an as-yet-publisherless book about the development of golf in China. Golf, its emergence and growth in China, is a barometer for the country's rapid economic rise. But golf is also symbolic of the less glamorous realities of a nation's awkward and arduous evolution from developing to developed — historical prejudice, class struggle, political corruption, environmental neglect, and an ever-widening gap between rich and poor. This website is dedicated to some of my work on the topic. My writing has appeared in such publications as Slate, Financial Times Weekend Magazine, Foreign Policy, ESPN.com, Golf World, GOOD, Budget Travel, Economist.com, Outside's GO, Business China (part of The Economist), Baseball America and the South China Morning Post. In 2008, a piece of mine was featured in the book Inside The Ropes: Sportswriters Get Their Game On, an anthology of the best of participatory sports journalism. (more)

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Story in Slate Magazine

"The Forbidden Game," my Slate Magazine piece featuring China's 'golf police,' bulldozed fairways and plenty of local politics ran in March 2010. Be sure to check out the companion photo essay with images from Ryan Pyle.

Photo essay in Foreign Policy

In February 2010 I teamed up with Shanghai-based documentary photographer Ryan Pyle for a photo essay in Foreign Policy entitled "China’s Golf Obsession."



Financial Times Weekend Magazine cover story

I began 2010 with a Financial Times Weekend Magazine cover story ( “Golf’s secret boom in Hainan, China” ) which examines a highly secretive and controversial golf construction project that, when completed, will be the largest collection of courses in the world — nearly 1.5 times the size of Manhattan.






Golf World magazine cover story

I wrote the November 9, 2009 cover story for Condé Nast’s Golf World magazine, “Last Call,” which profiled China’s pioneering pro golfers, whose window of opportunity for competitive success might be closing. Read the story here.

HSBC Champions coverage for ESPN.com

In November 2009, I filed five stories for ESPN.com from the HSBC Champions golf tournament in Shanghai, which ended in a final day showdown between the world’s top two golfers, Tiger Woods and Phil Mickelson. You can find introductions and links to all five stories here.

Golf in China series on ESPN.com


Quoted in The Wall Street Journal

The Wall Street Journal's Jonathan Cheng interviewed me for his story "Beijing Pulls Out Its Driver," which appeared in the November 27, 2009 print edition. You can read the story here.

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